How to Clean a Washing Machine So Clothes Stop Smelling Musty

Why Clean Clothes Come Out Smelling Musty

If freshly washed clothes smell damp, musty, or faintly sour, the laundry itself is rarely the problem. The smell usually comes from residue inside the machine: detergent and fabric softener build-up, body oils, lint, and moisture that never fully dries. That residue feeds mould and bacteria, especially in the rubber door seal, the detergent drawer, and the filter. Every wash then passes clean clothes through a dirty machine, so they pick up the smell again.

Modern habits make this worse. Washing mostly at low temperatures, using liquid detergent and softener, and closing the door immediately after a wash all create a warm, damp, enclosed environment where residue builds up. None of those habits is wrong on its own, but together they mean the machine needs regular cleaning, just as an oven or a fridge does. A machine that has never been cleaned, or has not been cleaned for a year, will almost always smell, however good the detergent.

Before you start, gather what you need: rubber gloves, an old toothbrush or small brush, a cloth, a bowl, a towel for the floor, and white vinegar and bicarbonate of soda if you plan to use them. Check your machine's manual first for any specific cleaning instructions or warnings, especially for the filter and the detergent drawer. If you do not have the manual, the maker's website usually offers a free download by model number, which is printed on a label inside the door or on the back.

Safety and Preparation First

Unplug the machine or switch it off at the wall before you touch the filter or reach inside the drum. Water and electricity do not mix, and the filter area can release a surprising amount of water. Lay a towel on the floor in front of the machine and keep a shallow bowl or tray ready. Wear gloves, because the residue in the seal and filter can be unpleasant and can irritate skin.

Never mix cleaning products. In particular, never mix bleach with vinegar or with other cleaners, because that can create harmful fumes. Choose one approach for a cleaning session and stick to it. If you use bleach for a drum clean, do not add vinegar in the same cycle. If you prefer vinegar and bicarbonate of soda, do not add bleach. For most routine cleaning, hot water, a brush, and a cloth are enough, with vinegar or bicarbonate of soda as optional helpers, not as a chemical cocktail.

Empty the drum completely and check the pockets of any clothes you remove — a tissue left in a pocket is a common source of lint and residue. Remove the detergent drawer if it slides out, noting how it comes out so you can put it back. Locate the filter cover, usually at the bottom front of a front-loader, and the drain hose if your model has one. Take a photo of the filter and drawer before you start, so reassembly is straightforward.

Clean the Rubber Door Seal

The rubber seal, or gasket, around a front-loader door is the most common source of musty smell. It has folds that trap water, detergent, hair, and small objects such as coins, buttons, and hair grips. Pull the folds gently open and look inside. You will often find dark spots, slime, or a grey residue, especially at the bottom of the seal where water pools.

Wipe the seal thoroughly with a damp cloth, opening each fold in turn. Use an old toothbrush for the tight folds and corners. If there is stubborn residue, dampen the cloth with a little white vinegar or a mild washing-up liquid solution, wipe, and then wipe again with clean water to remove any cleaner. Do not use abrasive scourers or sharp objects on the seal, because a torn seal leaks. Check for small objects as you go and remove them.

If the seal has deep black mould that does not wipe off, it may be stained rather than just dirty. Staining alone does not always mean the seal is failing, but if the seal is cracked, torn, stiff, or no longer sits flat, it may need replacing. A replacement seal is a job for a competent repairer or a confident DIYer following the maker's instructions, not something to force. Note the model number if you need to order a part.

Clean the Detergent Drawer and Housing

The detergent drawer is the second most neglected part. Liquid detergent and softener leave a sticky film that hardens, blocks the jets, and smells. Pull the drawer out fully — most drawers have a small tab or button to release them — and soak it in hot water in a sink or bowl for 15 to 20 minutes. Then scrub it with a brush, paying attention to the softener compartment and any small siphon caps, which clog easily. Rinse and dry it fully before replacing it.

While the drawer soaks, clean the housing it slides into. Use a damp cloth and a small brush to wipe the top and sides of the housing, where detergent drips and mould grows out of sight. This area is often worse than the drawer itself, because it is rarely seen. Wipe it until the cloth comes away clean, then dry it with a second cloth. A damp housing put back with a damp drawer will start smelling again quickly, so dryness matters.

As a worked example, consider a machine that leaves softener in the drawer after every wash. That is often a clogged siphon cap or a blocked jet in the housing, not a fault with the softener. Cleaning both the drawer and the housing, and running a rinse cycle afterwards, usually restores normal dispensing. If the problem persists after cleaning, check your manual for a blocked inlet or a water pressure issue, rather than adding more softener to compensate.

Use less detergent in future than you think you need. Overdosing is a major cause of build-up, and modern detergents are concentrated. Follow the dosage on the packet for your water hardness and load size, and remember that soft water needs less detergent than hard water. If you live in a hard-water area, you may need a little more, but still within the recommended range. Excess detergent does not make clothes cleaner; it leaves residue in the machine and on clothes.

Run a Hot Drum Clean

With the seal and drawer clean, run a cleaning cycle for the drum itself. Many modern machines have a dedicated drum clean, tub clean, or self-clean programme. If yours does, use it and follow the manual's instructions for whether to add cleaner. If yours does not, run the hottest programme available — usually 60°C or 90°C — with the drum empty.

You can run this hot cycle with no additives at all, and it will still help by flushing residue and killing much of the bacteria. If you want an extra clean, add either a washing machine cleaner following its packet instructions, or, as a simple home option, a cup of white vinegar in the drum or detergent drawer, or bicarbonate of soda in the drum. Do not add both vinegar and bicarbonate of soda in the same cycle expecting a stronger effect; they neutralise each other. Choose one, and do not add bleach in the same cycle as vinegar.

Let the cycle complete fully, including the rinse and spin. When it finishes, leave the door open for a few hours so the drum and seal dry completely. Wipe the drum with a clean cloth if you can see any remaining residue, and check the seal again for loosened debris. A hot clean once a month is a good routine for a machine used daily, and every two to three months is reasonable for lighter use. If you mostly wash at 30°C or 40°C, a monthly hot clean is especially important, because low-temperature washes do not flush residue as effectively.

Clean the Filter and Drain Pump Area

The filter, sometimes called the drain pump filter, traps lint, coins, hair, and small objects before they reach the pump. A blocked filter can cause slow draining, poor spinning, bad smells, and, in some cases, an error code. It should be checked every few months, or more often if you wash pet bedding, work clothes, or items with loose fibres.

Place your towel and bowl in front of the filter cover at the bottom of the machine. Open the cover, and if there is a small drain hose, pull it out, remove its cap over the bowl, and let the water drain. Then unscrew the filter slowly — water will still come out, so go gently and let it drain into the bowl. Remove the filter, clear out lint and objects, and rinse it under running water. Use a brush for stubborn debris, but do not force it.

While the filter is out, look inside the filter housing with a torch and remove any visible debris with gloved fingers or a cloth. Do not reach deep into the pump area with bare hands, and do not insert tools that could damage the pump. Screw the filter back firmly, but not with excessive force, and replace the drain hose cap and cover. Run a short rinse cycle afterwards and check for leaks around the filter. A filter that is not seated correctly will leak, so check the floor after the first cycle.

Dry, Ventilate, and Change Daily Habits

Cleaning once will remove the smell, but habits determine whether it returns. The single most effective habit is leaving the door ajar after each wash, and leaving the detergent drawer slightly open, so air circulates and the seal and drum dry. If you have small children or pets, leave the door open only when you can do so safely, or use a door prop designed for your machine. Even a small gap helps.

Remove washed clothes promptly. Clothes left damp in a closed drum for hours will smell musty even in a clean machine, and they transfer that damp smell back to the drum. If you cannot unload immediately, use a delayed start so the wash finishes when you are available, rather than finishing hours before you return.

Wash bedding, towels, and heavily soiled items at a higher temperature occasionally, following their care labels, to help flush the machine. Avoid using fabric softener on every load; softener builds up faster than detergent and can reduce towel absorbency. If you love softener, use it sparingly and clean the drawer more often. Finally, wipe the seal dry after the last wash of the day if you notice water pooling there. That ten-second wipe prevents the damp environment mould needs.

Common Mistakes That Keep the Smell Coming Back

The most common mistake is cleaning only the drum and ignoring the seal, drawer, and filter. A hot cycle alone will not remove the residue trapped in the seal folds or the clogged drawer housing. All four areas — drum, seal, drawer, filter — need attention for a lasting result. Another mistake is using too much detergent or softener after cleaning, which rebuilds the residue within weeks. Measure detergent, especially if you switched to a concentrated product.

Using scented products to mask the smell is another trap. A strong fragrance may cover mustiness for one wash, but it does not remove the residue causing it, and it can add to build-up. Fix the source first; fragrance is optional afterwards, not a substitute.

Do not close the door immediately after a cleaning cycle either. The drum needs to dry, or the cleaning effort is partly wasted. Similarly, do not run a cleaning cycle and then immediately wash a load of clothes without checking that the drum is clean and dry. Give the machine a chance to air.

Finally, do not ignore a persistent smell after a full clean. If you have cleaned all four areas, run a hot cycle, and changed habits, but the smell returns within a few washes, there may be a drainage issue, a blocked hose, or a problem with the water supply. That is a point to check the manual's troubleshooting section or call a repairer, rather than repeating the same clean endlessly.

If This Does Not Work, Try This

If clothes still smell after a full clean, work through this order. First, check whether the smell is on all loads or only some. If only towels smell, the issue may be that towels are left damp too long, or washed too cool, rather than the machine. Wash towels separately at the hottest temperature their labels allow, and dry them promptly and fully.

If all loads smell, repeat the seal and filter clean, because those are the areas most often missed on the first attempt. Check the drain hose for kinks or a low loop that could allow dirty water to flow back. In the UK and US, the drain hose should rise to a certain height before entering the drain, following the manual's installation diagram; a hose lying flat on the floor can cause backflow and odours.

If the machine drains slowly, vibrates excessively, or shows an error code, stop and check the filter and pump area again, and consult the manual. Do not run repeated hot cycles hoping to force a blockage clear. If the machine is under warranty, contact the maker or retailer before dismantling anything beyond the user-accessible filter and drawer, because unauthorised dismantling can void cover.

Questions People Ask

How often should I clean my washing machine?

For daily use, run a hot drum clean monthly and check the seal, drawer, and filter every two to three months. For lighter use, a drum clean every two to three months and a filter check twice a year is usually enough. If you notice a smell, clean sooner rather than waiting for the routine date.

Can I use vinegar and bicarbonate of soda together?

Not effectively in the same cycle. They react and neutralise each other, so you lose the benefit of both. Choose one per cleaning cycle — vinegar for residue and odour, or bicarbonate of soda for a gentle clean — and never mix either with bleach.

Why does my machine smell even though I use good detergent?

Good detergent does not prevent build-up if you overdose, wash only at low temperatures, use softener heavily, and close the door immediately. Residue, moisture, and lack of airflow cause the smell, not detergent quality. Measure detergent, run a monthly hot wash, and leave the door ajar to dry.

Is black mould in the seal dangerous?

Mould in the seal is unpleasant and should be cleaned, and it can irritate sensitive skin or allergies. Wipe it thoroughly with gloves, and seek medical advice if you have health concerns. If the seal is deeply stained, cracked, or torn, have it inspected, because a damaged seal can leak and harbour mould that cleaning cannot fully remove.

Should I leave the washing machine door open all the time?

Leave it ajar after washing until the drum and seal are dry, usually a few hours, and leave the drawer slightly open too. You do not need to leave it open permanently, and if children or pets could climb in, use a safe gap or a purpose-made prop and close it when the machine is dry.

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