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The four-in-hand is the knot to learn first — it suits most collars and takes a minute. The half Windsor and full Windsor cover formal days. Each one, step by step.
Stand in front of a mirror with your collar up and the top button done up. Drape the tie around your neck with the wide end on your dominant side — right side if you are right-handed — and the narrow end on the other side. The wide end should hang about 30 cm (12 inches) lower than the narrow end; you will adjust this with practice, and the length of the tie matters more than it seems.
The knot you choose depends on your collar and the occasion. A standard collar suits the four-in-hand. A spread collar suits the half Windsor. A wide spread collar and a very formal occasion suit the full Windsor. If in doubt, the four-in-hand is never wrong — it is the knot most men wear most days.
A good knot is snug against the collar, centred, and the same size as the gap between your collar points. If the knot is wider than the gap, it looks squeezed; if it is much smaller, it looks lost. That is the whole secret of choosing a knot: match it to the collar.
Start with the wide end on your right, hanging lower. Cross the wide end over the narrow end, so it lies across your chest. Bring the wide end behind the narrow end, to your left, then bring it across the front again, to your right — you have now wrapped the narrow end once.
Now bring the wide end up behind the loop around your neck, from underneath, and then down through the loop you just made at the front. That last move is the knot: the wide end passes through the front loop and hangs down in front.
Hold the narrow end with one hand and slide the knot up to your collar with the other, gently. The knot should sit slightly off-centre — that is normal for a four-in-hand, and it is part of its charm. Pinch a small dimple into the tie just under the knot with your finger and thumb, and you are done. The finished tie should reach your belt buckle.
The half Windsor is symmetrical, a little larger than the four-in-hand, and the right choice for a spread collar or an interview. Start the same way, with the wide end lower on your right. Cross the wide end over the narrow end, then bring it up behind the loop around your neck and down to the left.
Now bring the wide end across the front to the right, then up behind the neck loop again, and down through the front loop you have made. Slide the knot up to the collar, keeping it centred this time — the half Windsor should sit straight, unlike the four-in-hand.
This knot uses more length than the four-in-hand, so start with the wide end hanging lower — about 35 cm below the narrow end. If the finished tie ends up too short, start again with more length on the wide end; guessing the length is the main skill, and it comes with practice.
The full Windsor is the biggest, most formal knot, and it belongs with a wide spread collar — a standard collar will be swallowed by it. Start with the wide end on your right, hanging well below the narrow end, about 40 cm lower.
Cross the wide end over the narrow end, bring it up through the neck loop from underneath, then down to the left. Bring it behind the narrow end to the right, then across the front to the left. Bring it up through the neck loop again, then down through the front loop. That is two wraps around the neck loop, which is what makes the knot wide and triangular.
Slide it up slowly and centre it. The full Windsor should fill the space between the collar points exactly. If it looks too big, your collar is too narrow for it — switch to the half Windsor. This knot also eats the most length, so on a short tie it may not work at all.
The Pratt, also called the Shelby knot, is neat, symmetrical, and smaller than the half Windsor — a good choice for a slim tie or a narrow collar. It starts differently: drape the tie around your neck inside out, with the seam facing out and the wide end on your right.
Bring the wide end under the narrow end to the left, then up through the neck loop and down to the left. Bring it across the front to the right, then up behind the neck loop and down through the front loop. Slide it up to the collar.
Because it starts inside out, the Pratt uses less length than the Windsors, so it suits shorter ties. It is also the easiest symmetrical knot to learn, which makes it a good second knot after the four-in-hand.
The tip of the wide end should reach the middle of your belt buckle. Too short looks unfinished; too long looks careless. If your tie is consistently too short, you need a long tie — they exist, and they are worth buying if you are tall. If it is too long, start with the wide end hanging lower.
The dimple is the small fold just under the knot. Pinch it in with your finger and thumb as you slide the knot up, and it will hold. A tie with no dimple looks flat; a tie with a deep dimple looks deliberate. Either is fine — a flat tie is not a mistake.
Do the final check: knot centred and snug against the collar, tie straight down the middle of your shirt, tip at the belt, and the narrow end hidden behind the wide end. If your tie has a keeper loop on the back of the wide end, thread the narrow end through it so it does not flap out.
The four-in-hand. It takes a minute to learn, suits almost every collar and occasion, and forgives mistakes. Learn it first, wear it for a month, and only then add the half Windsor for formal days.
The tip of the wide end should reach the middle of your belt buckle when the knot is done up. That is the rule for every knot. If your tie is always too short or too long, the problem is the starting length or the tie itself, not the knot.
Too short usually means you started with the wide end too high, or the knot used too much length — try a simpler knot, or start with the wide end hanging lower. Too long means the opposite. If the tie itself is the wrong length for your height, buy a long or short tie rather than fighting it.
No, but it is useful. A tie clip (or tie bar) holds the tie to your shirt, stops it flapping, and keeps it out of your food. Wear it between the third and fourth shirt buttons, and never wider than the tie itself.
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